After I got the neck blank planed down on one side, I was able to trace a rough idea of what I wanted the banjo to look like on it. I should have squared the blank up on all four sides, because is has a bit of a lean to it after I rough it out on the bandsaw.
I only have a little benchtop model, which is not ideal, but I am definately am not able to convince my wife to let me buy anything bigger, until I make a few banjos that look something a little better than kindling. I went out and bought a 3/8" blade (the max with for this model) and it managed to hadle the maple pretty well, although it was definately chugging. It was NOT accurate at all, so I made sure to stay well outside of the line, and work it closer later with a rasp and file.
I choose a 24" scale (thats the distace from the bridge to the nut). My blank is only 30" long so this scale length is short enough to let me squeeze it on, and have enough room for a dowel stick and headstock. I choose to make a one piece dowel stick insted the more common 2 piece joined with a mortise and tenon, because I thought I would be easier. Big mistake! More on that later....
1 comment:
There is an art to fine tuning and setting up a bandsaw.
I bought a craftsman benchtop bandsaw from a garage sale, and about re-sold it after using it.
Long story short: I spent hours tuning it up, adjusting the guide blocks, etc.
It now cuts great.
I do mahogany necks though. That also could be the difference
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